Observations
August 1, 2019



Wingate Lassiter
THE EDITOR'S POINT OF VIEW

The sad demise of country hams;

the surprising rise of sweet potatoes


What irony!

I'm talking about the two top stories in this week's Sun:
• The first, about the closing of Johnston County Hams.
• The second, about the elevation of sweet potatoes above tobacco as one of Johnston's principal cash crops.

Ironic, in that the juxtaposition of these two items of "breaking news" bring to mind the origins of Smithfield's Ham & Yam Festival back in 1985.

I doubt the festival would have been such a success in the beginning without the leadership provided by the folks at Johnston County Hams. Curemaster Jesse Brown had the necessary "connections" with the Smithfield, Va. ham producers that led to their acceptance of a challenge to see which Smithfield produced the best country hams.

It didn't hurt that Leo Daughtry, one of the owners of Johnston County Hams, went to college with Joe Luter, one of the mainstays among the famous Smithfield, Va. ham producers.

With the demise of Johnston County Hams, Stevens Sausage Company is the only one left of the five local producers that took on the Virginians 30-something years ago. The others are no longer on the scene: Barefoot Country Cured Hams, Medlin Hams, and Sanders Country Hams.

Meanwhile, the "yam" side of the festival's name shines on. Actually, the sweet-potato "industry" appears to be doing better than ever.

When the festival was launched, Johnston County claimed to be the nation's largest producer of sweet potatoes (also known as "yams" although that label is technically incorrect). We aren't the largest producer these days (we were ranked No.4 in the most recent state report), but look what's happening:

Johnston County's sweet-potato acreage this year is projected to increase to more than 11,900 --- almost double the acreage planted in tobacco! It's a similar reversal in standing for income from those crops.

Who would've "thunk it" 30 years ago?

But then, who would've foreseen the alarming decline of the newspaper industry that has hit us diehards like a ton of bricks?


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