
Wingate Lassiter
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THE EDITOR'S POINT OF VIEW
The sad demise of country hams;
the surprising rise of sweet potatoes
What irony!
I'm talking about the two top stories in this week's Sun:
• The first, about the closing of Johnston County Hams.
• The second, about the elevation of sweet potatoes above
tobacco as one of Johnston's principal cash crops.
Ironic, in that the juxtaposition of these two items of
"breaking news" bring to mind the origins of Smithfield's
Ham & Yam Festival back in 1985.
I doubt the festival would have been such a success in the
beginning without the leadership provided by the folks at
Johnston County Hams. Curemaster Jesse Brown had the
necessary "connections" with the Smithfield, Va. ham
producers that led to their acceptance of a challenge to
see which Smithfield produced the best country hams.
It didn't hurt that Leo Daughtry, one of the owners of
Johnston County Hams, went to college with Joe Luter, one
of the mainstays among the famous Smithfield, Va. ham
producers.
With the demise of Johnston County Hams, Stevens Sausage
Company is the only one left of the five local producers
that took on the Virginians 30-something years ago. The
others are no longer on the scene: Barefoot Country Cured
Hams, Medlin Hams, and Sanders Country Hams.
Meanwhile, the "yam" side of the festival's name shines
on. Actually, the sweet-potato "industry" appears to be
doing better than ever.
When the festival was launched, Johnston County claimed to
be the nation's largest producer of sweet potatoes (also
known as "yams" although that label is technically
incorrect). We aren't the largest producer these days (we
were ranked No.4 in the most recent state report), but
look what's happening:
Johnston County's sweet-potato acreage this year is
projected to increase to more than 11,900 --- almost
double the acreage planted in tobacco! It's a similar
reversal in standing for income from those crops.
Who would've "thunk it" 30 years ago?
But then, who would've foreseen the alarming decline of
the newspaper industry that has hit us diehards like a ton
of bricks?
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